RABBIT CARE
Domestic rabbits are delightful companion animals. They are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and often demonstratively affectionate. People are surprised to learn that well-cared-for indoor rabbits have an average life span of about 7 to 10 years, the same as many breeds of dogs. When you adopt a rabbit, therefore, you are making a long-term commitment. Responsibility involves providing proper housing, nutrition, grooming and veterinary care.

RABBITS AND CHILDREN
Our culture is so filled with images of children and rabbits together (the Easter Bunny, Peter Rabbit, the Velveteen Rabbit, etc.) that many parents see rabbits as low-maintenance starter pets for kids. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, rabbits and small children can be a dangerous combination. Rabbits are physically delicate and fragile animals, and require specialized veterinary care.

Children are naturally energetic, exuberant and loving. But "loving" to a small child usually means holding, cuddling, carrying an animal around - precisely the kinds of things that make most rabbits feel insecure and frightened. Rabbits are prey animals by nature; they need to feel extremely safe and secure before they'll relax and let their personalities show. Rabbits can't cry out when distressed. Each year, thousands are abandoned to animal shelters when they start to scratch or bite to protect themselves from children who simply cannot resist picking them up. Many rabbits are dropped accidentally by children, resulting in broken legs and backs. While rabbits may be appropriate family companions, an adult should be the primary caretaker in order to ensure that the rabbit receives proper care. Ideally, parents provide the example in correctly caring for the rabbit at the same time as encouraging children to learn the responsibilities involved.

HOUSING AND EXERCISE
Many people think that because rabbits are relatively small (compared to most dogs or cats), they do not require much room for housing or exercise. Not so! Rabbits have powerful hind legs, designed for running and jumping. They need plenty of out-of-cage exercise time, as well as a cage that allows them to move freely and to stretch out fully. The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit is 2' x 2' x 4'. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they often cause ulcerations on rabbits' feet. If you already have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of wood or corrugated cardboard, cut to fit the cage floor. Better yet, buy a cage with a floor.

Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area - with ample room to run and jump - either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave the rabbit unsupervised outdoors - even for a few minutes!

Neighborhood cats, dogs and even birds can gain access to a rabbit over fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences, get out and become lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering (or making inaccessible) all electrical wires and anything else your rabbit is likely to chew. Recommended exercise time for indoor rabbits is several hours per day.

DIET
* The single most important component of your rabbit's diet is grass hay (such as Timothy or Brome), which keeps the intestinal tract healthy; it should be fed free-choice, daily. Hay can be purchased in many pet stores, or mail-ordered from companies such as Oxbow, (800) 249-0366.

* In addition to hay, rabbits also are fed commercial rabbit pellets and fresh, dark-green leafy vegetables. Until they are fully grown (around 6 months of age), rabbits can have all the pellets they want. After 6 months, assuming the animal also is getting hay and vegetables, the pellets should be limited to 1/8 to 1/4 cup per day, per 5 lbs. body weight. For example, a 10-lb. rabbit would get 1/4 to 1/2 cup per day. Pellets should be fresh and plain. Do not buy brands that have seeds, nuts or little colored tidbits in them.

* Fresh water (bottle or bowl) always should be available.

LITTER TRAINING
Rabbits are immaculately clean by nature, and will do their best to keep their living quarters clean. Most rabbits will choose one corner of the cage as their bathroom. As soon as your rabbit's choice is clear to you, put a litter box in that corner, and the rabbit will start to use it. A folded section of newspaper should be placed at the bottom of the litter box, topped with Timothy hay (or any other grass hay - not alfalfa). Pelleted-newspaper litters are also acceptable. If the litter box is changed daily, your rabbit's home (and yours) will stay fresh and odor-free. Don't use pine or cedar shavings with rabbits! Fumes from these products may affect your rabbit's liver enzymes, which can cause problems if the animal needs anesthesia for surgery. Avoid using clay cat litters (both clumping and non-clumping) for rabbits; these may result in respiratory problems, or obstructions in the gastrointestinal tract, if the litter material is ingested.

INDOORS OR OUTDOORS?
Because wild rabbits are a common sight outdoors, many people think an outdoor hutch is the best way to keep a domestic rabbit. Rabbits, however, are highly social animals, and a backyard hutch forces them to live in unnatural isolation. Further, rabbits can die of heart attacks from the very approach of a predator or vandal - even if the rabbit is not attacked or bitten. Domestic rabbits do best in an indoor environment, where they have plenty of interaction with other family members. In fact, the average life span of a domestic rabbit kept outdoors is around two years, while a well-cared-for indoor rabbit can live 7 to 10 years.
Handling and General Care * Pick up your rabbit by supporting his forequarters with one hand and his hindquarters with the other. Failure to support your rabbit's hindquarters when handling can result in spinal injuries to the animal. Never pick up a rabbit by his ears; this can cause very serious injury.

* Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to help remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to clip your rabbit's nails.

* Rabbits should be spayed or neutered by a qualified veterinarian, experienced with rabbit surgeries. Many thousands of rabbits are left in shelters each year for lack of good homes. Spaying or neutering prevents not only breeding, but also spraying (males) and uterine cancer (females). To find a qualified rabbit veterinarian, search the House Rabbit Society web page at www.rabbit.org.

* Rabbits should not be housed with other rabbits unless certain conditions are met: 1) all are spayed/neutered and 2) they are introduced in neutral territory under careful supervision. Introductions are often difficult and injuries can result.

* If your rabbit stops eating or moving his bowels for 12 hours or longer or has watery diarrhea, seek expert veterinary care immediately.

Written for The ASPCA by Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D., Licensed Educator, House Rabbit Society

IF AT THE END OF THIS ARTICLE, YOU ARE STILL CONVINCED THAT A RABBIT IS THE COMPANION ANIMAL FOR YOU, GO TO OUR CAT ADOPTION PAGE AND TAKE A LOOK AT 3 WONDERFUL BUNNIES LOOKING FOR A GOOD HOME.

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